Here are the questions we’re asked most about kitchen splashbacks and floors. If you’d like advice on your own kitchen, email [email protected] or request a free quotation.
Questions tilers actually get
When should the splashback be tiled during a kitchen fit?▾
After the worktops are in. The splashback needs to sit down onto the finished worktop with a neat silicone joint, so tiling before the tops are fitted almost always ends in an untidy gap or a rushed cut. Ideally the units, worktops and any wall sockets are in place, then we tile, then the decorator does the final coat.
If you’re planning a kitchen refit, tell us your fitter’s schedule and we’ll slot in at the right moment. Most splashbacks take a day, with grouting either the same day or the next.
What are the best materials for a kitchen splashback?▾
Glazed ceramic and porcelain are the workhorses: easy to wipe down, unbothered by heat behind a hob, and available in everything from metro brick to large-format slab looks that give you an almost seamless surface with very few joints.
Natural stone can look wonderful, but be honest with yourself about upkeep. Marble and limestone need sealing and can etch or stain near a hob where oil and acidic splashes land. We’ll always tell you if a tile you love is going to be hard work in that spot.
Can you tile a kitchen floor over the existing floor?▾
Sometimes. Sound, well-bonded existing tiles can be primed and tiled over with a flexible adhesive, but the extra height matters more in a kitchen than anywhere else: doors, plinths and built-under appliances like dishwashers often have very little clearance to spare.
Timber floors need overboarding or decoupling matting before tiling, and soft coverings like vinyl come up first. We assess all of this at the quotation stage so there are no surprises on the day.
How disruptive is kitchen floor tiling?▾
We won’t pretend it’s nothing, but it’s manageable with a bit of planning. The room needs to be cleared, and once the tiles are laid the adhesive needs to cure before foot traffic, typically overnight, with grouting the following day. For most kitchens you’re looking at two to four days from start to walking on the finished floor.
We sheet up adjoining rooms, cut outside wherever possible and tidy at the end of every day, because we’re working in your home, not on a building site.
Can I have underfloor heating in a kitchen?▾
Yes, and tiles are the ideal partner for it, because porcelain and ceramic conduct heat far better than timber or vinyl. Electric mat systems suit most kitchen refits, sitting within the floor build-up under the tiles, while wet systems are usually reserved for extensions and new floors where there’s depth to play with.
We install with flexible adhesive and, where the substrate calls for it, decoupling matting, then talk you through the gentle warm-up routine that protects the new floor. There’s more detail on our underfloor heating page.
